Soda Ash and Battery Charger Method (PREFERRED)ĬONDUCT ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND AWAY FROM SPARK OR FLAME) of Grandma's Molasses in Warm Water in a seal-able 5 to 10 gallon plastic container. An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil mixed 50:50 with kerosene.Ģ. The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished.

This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well. If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well.

If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job. To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish. After the lantern has been cleaned, I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic (tm) Metal Polish to bring out the luster. You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.Ĩ. Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.ħ. Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry with paper towels immediately. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all the rust or tarnish has been removed.Ħ. Remove the lantern, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS,)ĥ. Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in the Solution for **1 day.Ĥ. Mix 1 cup of PH-Down in Warm Water in a sealable 5 to 10 gallon plastic container.ģ. Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.Ģ. This method will remove rust, crud, (and eventually paint) without removing the patina.ġ. PH-Down ( Sodium Bisulfate) Method (PREFERRED) (NOTE: Take all safety precautions, use gloves, safety glasses, etc.) WARNING: Sand blasting or glass bead blasting will not only remove the patina but is the fastest way to destroy the value of a lantern, and possibly blast holes through the metal. These are only basic guidelines, but they will give you a starting point to develop your own system. You should have some basic knowledge of working with chemicals before attempting the following procedures. The main objective is to remove all of the rust and paint and stabilize the metal to prevent further deterioration. With the advent of modern fuels, Cold Blast lanterns can be used inside or out. This fact has rendered the 'Cold Blast' Lantern a favorite with users. The 'Cold Blast' Lantern design produces a perfectly white flame and approximately twice the volume of light of a 'Hot Blast' Lantern with the same size wick. From an air chamber surrounding the metal chimney, which is provided with injectors for taking in fresh air, fresh air is taken into the side tubes, down which it flows to the lower air chamber and thus to the burner. The spent products of combustion escape to the outer air through a central metal chimney in the Lantern head. Also, due to the re-circulating of the products of combustion, the Hot Blast Design is especially well suited for use indoors.Ĭold Blast Lanterns are so constructed that the supply of air taken through the side tubes does not mingle with the products of combustion and the flame is supplied with fresh air both through the globe plate and the side tubes. Inherent in the design of the Hot Blast Lantern, the burning time is approximately 10% greater than a Cold Blast Lantern of the same wick size. This design produces a steady yellow flame. A portion of this mixture of hot air and spent gases passes into the bell or canopy over the globe and through the sides tubes via downdraft to the air chamber beneath the burner, there directly supplying the flame.

This fresh air, in ascending through the globe, becomes heated by the flame and mingles with the hot products of combustion. Hot Blast Lanterns are so constructed that a supply of fresh air enters the globe at the base through the openings in the perforated globe plate. This safety feature is not found in any other other type of oil burning lamp or lantern! All tubular Hot Blast and Cold Blast lanterns will self extinguish if tipped over. Dead Flame examples include the Adlake #300 Kero or Dietz #041 Railroad Lanterns. All other lanterns made are classified as 'Dead Flame,' which are nothing more than an enclosure to protect the flame, as no air circulation is provided. The terms 'Hot Blast' and 'Cold Blast' are used solely in conjunction with tubular Lanterns and with regard to the method of supplying air to the flame. Tubular Lanterns are roughly classified under the captions 'Hot Blast' and 'Cold Blast.' Dietz (Rhymes with beets) made the first 'Hot Blast' Lanterns in 1868, and the first 'Cold Blast' Lanterns in 1880.

Dietz junior lantern